RV Winterizing (102)

September 21, 2009

by Mark Polk
Mark is a regular contributing author

We enjoy using our RV as much as possible throughout the year.  But when you can’t use your RV, for whatever reasons and temperatures are approaching freezing, it’s important that you protect it. Last week I talked about preparing your RV’s interior, exterior and chassis for storage during the colder winter months. I mentioned at the beginning of the article that the RV plumbing system is the most vulnerable to damage caused by plummeting temperatures. The good news is it is really quite easy to protect the RV water system from this potential threat.  I am including a checklist from my “Checklists for RVers” eBook to help walk you through the winterizing process.

Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

• Non-toxic RV/Marine antifreeze. The amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do.
• A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
• A tank wand to clean out the holding tanks, if you don’t have a built-in flushing system.
• A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
• Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Note: Be sure to read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

• If you have any inline water filters remove and/or bypass before starting.
• Drain the fresh water holding tank.
• Empty and flush the gray and black water holding tanks if it hasn’t already been done. If the RV doesn’t have a built-in flushing system clean the black tank out with a tank cleaning wand.
• Drain the water heater. Open the pressure relief valve and remove the drain plug.

Caution: Never drain the water heater when hot or under pressure. With no water hooked up to the RV and the water pump off, open a hot water faucet to remove any pressure on the system. Allow sufficient time for the tank to cool before draining.

• Open all hot and cold faucets; don’t forget the toilet valve (pedal or lever) and the outside shower (if equipped).
• Locate and open the low point water drain lines.
• Use the water pump to help force most of the remaining water out of the system, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained to prevent damaging the pump.

Note: It is not necessary to get every drop of water out of the water system, but you want to get most of it out. The non-toxic RV antifreeze will prevent the small amount of remaining water from freezing.

• Recap all drains and close all faucets.
• By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with RV antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six or ten gallons of antifreeze.

Note: A water heater by-pass kit can save you money in two ways. It saves you from using an extra six or ten gallons of non-toxic RV antifreeze when it’s time to winterize your RV, and a bypass kit also prevents costly damage like ruptured water lines or a ruptured water heater tank.  If water is left in the lines or tank they can freeze and expand, splitting the lines or tank. With a bypass kit you simply drain the water heater, put it in the by-pass mode and the antifreeze bypasses the tank and goes directly into the water lines.

• Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank to the pump) and connect tubing from the water pump inlet into a one gallon jug of RV antifreeze.
• Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet to the pump, slowly open the hot and then cold valves until the colored RV antifreeze appears. Replace the antifreeze container as required.
• Repeat this procedure on all faucets from the closest to the farthest away. Don’t forget the outside shower (if equipped).
• Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
• Pour a cupful of antifreeze down every drain (all sinks, shower & tub drains).
• Pour some RV antifreeze in the toilet and flush into the holding tank to prevent any water in the tank from freezing.
• If your water heater has an electric heating element, turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in (and the switch is on) while in storage.
• Make sure all faucets are closed.
• The unit is winterized.

Note: Consult your owner manuals for unit specific winterizing instructions for icemakers and washing machines.

Now, next spring when it’s time to head out in the RV you won’t have any unpleasant, not to mention costly, surprises waiting for.

For more great winterizing & storing information check out my Winterizing & Storing your RV E-book & my Winterizing & Storing your RV DVD

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk is founder of RV Education 101 and RV University

RV Winterizing (101)

September 17, 2009

by Mark Polk
Mark is a regular contributing author

It’s always sad to come to the realization that another camping season is winding down.  Part of this realization is preparing the RV for winter storage, so it will be ready to go camping again next spring.  My guess is that most RV owners, especially those in cold climate regions, refer to this winter storage preparation as winterizing your RV.  When you hear the term “winterizing” the first thought that comes to mind is to protect the RV water system from potential damage caused by exposure to freezing temperatures. Frozen and damaged water lines are in fact the most common problem related to not winterizing your RV, or not properly winterizing your RV; but there is more to winterizing your RV than just protecting the water system from freezing.

The English dictionary definition for “winterize” is to prepare something, especially a house or an automobile, to withstand cold winter conditions. What I find interesting about this definition is that your RV is essentially a house and automobile combined. With that said, winterizing your RV would entail more than just preparing the water system for cold winter conditions.  We would need to be concerned with preparing the RV’s interior, exterior, chassis, and plumbing from the harsh winter months.

RV Interior

When RVs are stored for the winter it’s not uncommon for mice and squirrels to make their winter home in the RV. These animals are notorious for chewing through vehicle wiring, plastic and rubber components, resulting in extensive damage to the RV. If it’s a motorized RV start the engine periodically to keep any chewing squirrels out of the engine compartment area.

Possibly, the most important step is to try and prevent mice and other rodents from being able to access your RV. This can be difficult because they can enter the RV through some very small openings. Start by inspecting the underside of your RV for any gaps or holes. Fill these gaps using silicone or expanding foam. A word of caution, if you never used expanding foam before, you should experiment with it on something other than your RV first. When it dries it can expand a great deal more than you expect. Next, open drawers and cabinet doors inside your RV. Look in all of the corners and crevices, especially where plumbing and wiring enter the RV. If you can see any daylight mice can get in. Fill these areas with silicone or foam.

Remove all food from the RV when it’s being stored and thoroughly clean the RV to remove any remnants of food that might attract mice and other rodents. Some people say mothballs help deter mice from making their home in your RV, and others say an alternative to mothballs is dryer sheets, like Bounce. I have talked to people who swear they work and the smell is much more pleasant. If you are close to where your RV is being stored you may want to use conventional mouse traps and check for mice every week or so.

Next you should defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the doors open and place baking soda in the compartments to absorb any odors. If the RV is in long-term storage, and won’t be plugged in to electricity, it’s a good idea to turn off the main breaker in the distribution panel. Turn the LP gas supply valve off at the cylinder(s) or tank. Close the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery. Leave doors drawers and cabinets open. Clean the A/C filter(s).  If you have vent covers installed on the overhead vents, that prevent rain from getting inside, leave them cracked open to allow for some ventilation. Remove any dry cell batteries from devices like smoke alarms, clocks etc.

RV Exterior

When you store your RV outside for extended periods the exterior begins to show signs of wear, caused by the constant exposure to the elements. Ozone in the air and ultraviolet, (UV) rays from the sun start to take their toll. Ozone causes the paint to fade and makes products like rubber and vinyl dry out, crack, and start to deteriorate. The UV rays from the sun make this aging process happen quicker. Before you store your RV you need to give the exterior a thorough cleaning.  Whenever I’m washing or cleaning anything, whether it’s an automobile or the RV, I start from the top and work my way down. It’s a good idea to clean the RV roof before putting the RV in storage too. The type of roof your RV has will determine the cleaner you will need to use. Wash the exterior and if you’re really motivated wax it, using a quality wax formulated for the type of exterior surface your RV has. A good coat of wax protects your RV finish the same as it does an automobile. When you are cleaning the RV exterior inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for any cracks and openings that would allow water to get in. Consult your RV dealer for sealants compatible with these materials and re-seal as required.

Don’t forget to clean the awning fabric, and let it dry completely before storing it. If you have a pop-up or hybrid trailer make sure all of the tenting material is clean and dry before storage.

Ideally you should try to store your RV under a covered area and on a solid surface like concrete. If this isn’t possible avoid parking under trees and in tall grass, fields or wooded areas. If the RV won’t be parked under some type of covered shelter you may want to invest in a cover. Covering your RV can be a logical and cost effective way to help protect your investment.  If you decide to use a cover make sure it is made of a breathable material.

Service all locks with a spray lubricant and lubricate all hinges. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas. You may want to cover LP gas appliance vents to prevent insects from making their winter home inside these vents. If you do cover the vents, remember to remove the cover next spring.

RV Chassis

Just like the exterior of the RV, the tires on your RV can be damaged by the harmful UV rays from the sun. Inflate the tires to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure and cover the tires with covers that will block out the sunlight. Place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Frozen ground and petroleum based surfaces, like asphalt, can damage tires over time. Make sure that whatever you use to block the tires is larger than the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block; this can cause internal damage to the tire. For trailers, chock the wheels front and rear. If you are storing a pop-up outdoors angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run-off.

Battery maintenance is an important part of winter storage preparation. If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will help keep the coach batteries topped off.  At a minimum you should check and adjust the water levels in all batteries and make sure the batteries are fully charged. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery. If the RV is in long-term storage it’s better to remove the batteries and store them where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries fully charged when they are in storage.

Note: If your converter charger doesn’t have a three stage charging system (or storage maintenance mode) don’t leave the unit plugged in constantly. This could overcharge the batteries and deplete the electrolyte levels.

If it’s a motorized RV you should fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the entire fuel system. Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings, especially while sitting for long periods of time. If possible exercise the generator for at least two hours every month with a minimum of a ½ rated load on it. Consult your generator owner’s manual for load ratings.

Next, I will discuss how to prepare the RV plumbing system for the cold winter months.

If you would like to learn more about winterizing & storing your RV check out Mark’s  Winterizing & Storing your RV DVD

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk is founder of RV Education 101 and RV University

Gas Prices in 2 Month Side

September 15, 2009

As appeared on CNNMoney.com September 29, 2009

Demand is way down due to unemployment and the recession.

(CNN) – Gas prices have dropped seven cents over the past two weeks, continuing a downward slide that has lasted nearly two months, according to a survey published Sunday.

The Lundberg Survey found the average price of a gallon of self-serve regular is $2.52 — down just over 12 cents since August 7.

Gas prices have “followed crude oil” a little more than penny-for-penny, said survey publisher Trilby Lundberg. Since August 7, crude oil has dropped nearly 12 cents a gallon, she said.

“The reason for both is the supply imbalance,” Lundberg said. Supply is plentiful, while “demand is desolate.”

“Absent a big upset in supply — that ever-present possibility — there’s nowhere for gasoline prices to go but down,” Lundberg said.

Demand is down due to the recession and mounting unemployment, said Lundberg. “This has punctured demand growth.”

The latest survey, which tallied prices at thousands of gas stations on Friday, found the highest average price in Anchorage, Alaska, at $3.29.

The lowest was in St. Louis, Missouri, at $2.16.

Here are the prices in some other cities:

- Honolulu – $3.27

- San Francisco- $3.15

- Boston – $2.57

- Charleston – $2.26

- Atlanta – $2.34

- Chicago – $2.61

- El Paso – $2.44

- Reno – $2.88

The Crisis of Belief

September 13, 2009

a devotional by Floyd Pratt

“And without faith it is impossible to please God, because anyone who comes to him must believe that he exists and that he rewards those who earnestly seek him.”  The Bible

The word crisis came form a word that means ‘decision’.  The same Greek word is often translated “judgment”.

I am not talking about a crisis in your life – like that of an accident or death, but rather the “crisis of belief” – as in belief vs. unbelief. This is when you face a critical turning point or fork in life’s road which may demand a life changing decision.

As a child, we often played the game of “blind man’s bluff.” With a blindfold around my eyes, I nervously anticipated (crisis) to  trust (believe) completely on my “guide”. I blindly obeyed instructions (commands) such as “turn to the right and take four steps” or “back up two steps while tilting your head forward” and others! Eventually, by listening attentively and following instructions as given, I arrived safely at the destination.

However, if I chose not to totally trust my guide, modified the instructions or relied on my own instincts, I most likely would have been headed for disaster.

Are you tracking with me here?

For the believer in Jesus Christ, our crisis of belief concerning our future in Heaven has passed! The assurance of our salvation is the result of total trust and obedience – even when we are blindfolded.

Does this mean we will never have crisis-requiring decisions again in our faith-walk? NO!

Jesus even address that very issue in John 16:33. In our remaining years, we will experience crisis after crisis – seemingly as though blindfolded while filled with anticipation and fear of disaster. However, we can focus our eyes on Christ, trusting that His leading is for our best and the completion of His will for us.

How about you? How do you handle the crisis of belief?

Do you focus on your own intuitions or is your gaze and trust on Christ Jesus for guidance, resolution and assurance that you will reach His destination for you – eternal life in Heaven?

Claim it! Hebrews 11:6

Floyd is a member of our Ambassador Club

Choosing a Space Heater

September 3, 2009

as appeared on Essortment.com

When winter approaches many of us are scurrying around trying to find the best space heater.

This year oil and liquid propane gas prices have sky-rocketed and people are thinking about just heating the space they are using, as opposed to keeping the whole house “up to speed,” heat wise. There are many heaters from which to choose. Some of them are the old standbys and some of them are fairly high tech. So, here’s a primer that may help you sort through the sale flyers you are receiving from the home stores, and figure out what you want, and what you need in a space heater.

Electric Heaters
Convection Heaters. These heaters have heating coils running through them and heat up very quickly. Most of these heaters have a thermostat that will cycle the heater off and on according to your desired heat level. The coils in these heaters get red-hot and they can easily be a fire hazard. My convection heater turns off if it is knocked over, but all heaters don’t have this feature. Mine also became a lot louder to operate after I tripped over it! The convection heaters have small fans that circulate the warmth throughout a room. This heater works well if you want to heat more than one person in a room. The fan usually has a setting for just air, which is a nice feature in the summer. You can purchase one with different heat settings (750, 1000, and 1500 watts). As a rule, the more settings a heater has, the more expensive it is to buy. These heaters can be a safety hazard if you have toddlers around the house.

What is a watt? When trying to figure out how effective a particular heater will be in the space you need heated, it is good to know some comparisons of heating lingo between electric and other fuels. Most fuels besides electricity are measured in BTU’s. Your fuel oil furnaces, kerosene heaters and woodstoves all are rated with BTU’s. You’ve probably heard it before, but what does it actually mean? A BTU is a British Thermal Unit, and one BTU is the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of 1lb of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. Furnaces can be rated 80,000 BTU’s. Many gas heaters have a rating of 39,000 BTU’s. Kerosene heaters are usually around 15,000 BTU’s. Electricity, however, is measured in wattage. If you multiply the number of watts by 3.41 you will get the amount of BTU’s you can expect from the heater. 1500 watts X 3.41 = 5115 BTU’s. Electric space heaters are usually much lower in their heat output than kerosene heaters, but for many rooms a heater giving off 15,000 BTU’s would drive you out!

Ceramic Heaters
This second type of electric heater is new on the heating scene. It delivers quite a bit of heat from a little box. It is highly portable and doesn’t use as much electricity as the coil type of heater. Some of the disc heaters are equipped with a rheotstat that sends full voltage to the element when the room is cold and slows down its output of electricity to the fan as it heats up. This is a nice feature, but it can override your own choice of the desired temperature for your room.

Oil Filled Radiant Heaters
These heaters look like an old fashioned radiator. They are electric heaters that are permanently filled with oil. They also seem to use less electricity than the coil type of electric heater. Most of the models come with wheels on them for easy portability. Although these take a little longer to warm up a room, it is a steady, economical heat source. Many people seem to be very satisfied with this type of heater.

Non-electric heaters

Kerosene heaters(non-vented)
These heaters would be the next step up in heating larger areas, and garages. As they are unvented it is recommended that you don’t use them in an enclosed area, but many people do. The heaters are radiant and have a wick that soaks up kerosene from a refillable tank. Most are equipped with automatic shut-offs if the heater is tipped or knocked over. They are about double the heating capacity of the largest heater mentioned above.

Natural or LP Gas Heaters (Non Vented)
Very popular heaters that require no venting according to the manufacturer. Many of these are wall mounted heaters, or come on a base. They need to be hooked up to your natural gas line, or a propane cylinder. Some brands come with oxygen depletion sensors that will shut the heater down if the air is getting oxygen poor. This could result in carbon monoxide poisoning. These can have heating capacities up to about 39,000 BTU’s. Today’s decorative fireplaces and even heaters that look much like wood stoves, can have gas as their fuel source. There are also vented models that only have to have a pipe that goes through the wall of an exterior wall. When you are figuring out how fast you will go through your tank of LP gas, remember that a gallon of LP is actually 4.25 pounds.

Wood Burning Heaters
Very popular in the 1970’s wood burning heaters have taken a second place to gas heaters, however, with the high price of gas and oil they are making a comeback. The biggest drawback to using a wood burning stove is that it requires an adequate (and usually expensive) chimney system that extends above the roof line. You must also follow certain safety guidelines about the placement of the stove in relation to the floors and walls. Check with your insurance agent before having a wood stove installed.

When you purchase your space heater, be sure to read the safety guidelines carefully. Remember, if your clothing does catch on fire, don’t run. Drop and roll to extinguish the fire. Teach all the members of the household about safety issues with the new heater. If you are using a heater that burns kerosene, LP or natural gas, or even wood you should also have a carbon monoxide detector installed on every floor of your house.

Being First Means Being Last

September 3, 2009

by John Imler
John is an RVchurchesUSA Ambassor and author of It’s Never Too Late

Being first has become very important in today’s world. We have all experienced the desire to be number one. We want to be first in any line, any race, or any class standing. It has often been said that the whole world likes a winner. Our generation has become known as the “me first” generation.

Since I believe the Bible is the best place to find out about life, I turned to it to find out how important it is to be first. I was not surprised to find that it is not important at all. In fact, being last seems to be of the most importance in God’s sight (Matt 20:27-28 & 22:37-38). Here Jesus says, “But seek ye first the kingdom of God” (Matt. 6:33)

The correct formula seems to be: God first, others second, and self last (Mark 9:35 & 10:35). Paul indicates the correctness of this formula when he commended the church of Macedonia (2 Cor. 8:5). John also refers to the desire to be first as being unacceptable in God’s eyes (3John 9).

God wants to be first in the lives of those who believe in Him. He wants to be first in our mind, our bodies, our souls, and our spirits. He wants to be first in our loyalties, our schedules, our business, and our individual flow charts.

God also wants to be first in our country and government. Current signs, however, indicate that we are trying to move Him to the last to be considered or consulted. The news seems to glory in each advance of those who oppose God’s being first.

California Rep. Dan Lundgren is sponsoring legislation to have the words “In God We Trust” and the Pledge of Allegiance inscribed in the new U.S Capitol Visitor Center. In response, Wisconsin-based Freedom From Religion Foundation Inc. is suing to block the legislation (Sacramento Bee, July 21, 2009).

The Sacramento Bee reported on July 25, 2009 that the U.S Mint will soon release a new quarter for American Samoa which will be inscribed with the words “Samoa, God Is First.” It seems we may only be willing to recognize His rightful place on one small island that consists of only 79 square miles.

To remind us of God’s desire to be first, He has placed great emphasis on it throughout the Bible. He asked the Children of Israel to bring Him offerings of the “first fruits” of their labor in Ex 2:2 &12 & 23:16-19

Where does being first rank in your priorities? It ought to be weighed on eternal scales to see how important it really is. “For what good is it for a man to gain the whole world, yet forfeit his soul?” (Mark 8:36). “What is your life? You are a mist that appears for a little while and then vanishes” (James 4:14).

Let our desire be like that of John the Baptist: “He must become greater, I must become less”( John 3:30).

John welcomes your comments either below or email him directly at john@faithrescued.com

Christianity No Longer Americans’ Default Faith

September 1, 2009

as appeared on Barna Group, January 12, 2009

For much of America’s history, the assumption was that if you were born in America, you would affiliate with the Christian faith. A new nationwide survey by The Barna Group, however, indicates that people’s views have changed. The study discovered that half of all adults now contend that Christianity is just one of many options that Americans choose from and that a huge majority of adults pick and choose what they believe rather than adopt a church or denomination’s slate of beliefs. Still, most people say their faith is becoming increasingly important as a source of personal moral guidance.

Choosing a Faith

The survey shows half of Americans believe the Christian faith no longer has a lock on people’s hearts. Overall, 50% of the adults interviewed agreed that Christianity is no longer the faith that Americans automatically accept as their personal faith, while just 44% disagreed and 6% were not sure.

Two-thirds of evangelical Christians (64%) and three out of every five Hispanics (60%) embraced that position, making them the groups most convinced of the shift in America’s default faith. The study also showed that residents of the Northeast and West were much more likely than those from the South and Midwest to assert that Christianity has lost its place as the first faith option people consider. People who said they are politically conservative, however, saw things differently than did the rest of the country: a slight majority of conservatives claimed that Christianity remains the natural choice of most Americans.

Faith and Moral Guidance

By an overwhelming margin – 74% to 23% – adults agreed that their religious faith was becoming even more important to them than it used to be as a source of objective and reliable moral guidance.

This perspective was championed by born again Christians: 91% concurred with the survey statement. In contrast, just two-thirds of the people who consider themselves to be Christian but are not born again (67%) embraced this view, and only four out of every ten Americans (39%) who do not affiliate with Christianity also said their faith has increasing influence on their moral judgments.

A sizeable majority of almost every subgroup of the population accepted this perspective as an accurate representation of their personal experience. African Americans were the ethnic group most supportive of the notion (84%). Conservatives (84%) were far more likely than either political moderates (70%) or liberals (65%) to agree – although comfortable majorities of those segments adopted the same view as conservatives.

Choosing Specific Beliefs

The United States has well over 200 different Christian denominations, a testimony to the historic importance people have attached to doctrinal accuracy. But things have changed dramatically in recent decades. The Barna survey underscored the fact that people no longer look to denominations or churches to offer a slate of theological views that the individual adopts in its entirety.

By a three to one margin (71% to 26%) adults noted that they are personally more likely to develop their own set of religious beliefs than to accept a comprehensive set of beliefs taught by a particular church. Although born again Christians were among the segments least likely to adopt the a la carte approach to beliefs, a considerable majority even of born again adults (61%) has taken that route. Leading the charge in the move to customize one’s package of beliefs are people under the age of 25, among whom more than four out of five (82%) said they develop their own combination of beliefs rather than adopt a set proposed by a church.

Evidence of people’s willingness to part with church teaching was shown in other data from the survey regarding what people believe. Among individuals who describe themselves as Christian, for instance, close to half believe that Satan does not exist, one-third contend that Jesus sinned while He was on earth, two-fifths say they do not have a responsibility to share the Christian faith with others, and one-quarter dismiss the idea that the Bible is accurate in all of the principles it teaches.

Implications of the Research

Asked to describe what the research means for American society today, researcher George Barna offered several insights.

1. The Christian faith is less of a life perspective that challenges the supremacy of individualism as it is a faith being defined through individualism. Americans are increasingly comfortable picking and choosing what they deem to be helpful and accurate theological views and have become comfortable discarding the rest of the teachings in the Bible.
2. Growing numbers of people now serve as their own theologian-in-residence. One consequence is that Americans are embracing an unpredictable and contradictory body of beliefs. Barna pointed out, as examples, that millions of people who consider themselves to be Christian now believe that the Bible is totally accurate in all of the lessons it teaches at the same time that they believe Jesus Christ sinned. Millions also contend that they will experience eternal salvation because they confessed their sins and accepted Christ as their savior, but also believe that a person can do enough good works to earn eternal salvation.
3. In the past, when most people determined their theological and moral points of view, the alternatives from which they chose were exclusively of Christian options – e.g., the Methodist point of view, the Baptist perspective, Catholic teaching, and so forth. Today, Americans are more likely to pit a variety of non-Christian options against various Christian-based views. This has resulted in an abundance of unique worldviews based on personal combinations of theology drawn from a smattering of world religions such as Christianity, Buddhism, Judaism, Hinduism, and Islam as well as secularism.
4. Faith, of whatever variety, is increasingly viral rather than pedagogical. With people spending less time reading the Bible, and becoming less engaged in activities that deepen their biblical literacy, faith views are more often adopted on the basis of dialogue, self-reflection, and observation than teaching. Feelings and emotions now play a significant role in the development of people’s faith views – in many cases, much more significant than information-based exercises such as listening to preaching and participating in Bible study.

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